As I walk into S&P fish shop on Ilfracombe harbour Clare is unpacking the new waterproof labels and Rich is dressing lobster. “I’m learning,” admits Clare, “anything you want to know about fish or how to cook it - ask Rich.” I soon discover Clare knows a lot more than she is letting on.

She is married to P for Paul - one of the Wharton brothers who founded S&P trawlers: the largest fishing fleet in North Devon.

Paul is the skipper of the banana-yellow potting boat ‘Lady of Lundy’ which supplies lobsters and crabs directly to the shop. Add to this the fish which comes off the trawlers and S&P is the only wet fish shop in North Devon fed directly from the boats.

Clare’s also running the licensed café selling seafood sandwiches and platters right on the harbour. With the fishing boats only ten metres or so away, you can’t beat this for food miles...

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